The Romantic Road

And so for a week in the romantic Cotswolds, home of the 'Chocolate Box' village and the gentle rolling countryside in viridus extremis (which might be Latin for very green).

Doing the Cotswolds is a torturous days work in anyone's language, but with an air of joie de vivre, I set off to do the 'Romantic Road' motoring tour, as you might call it if you were driving a Morgan with the top down.

First stop Moreton-in-Marsh (the names alone have a sugary caramel centre), where there's no shortage of attractive buildings, but the traffic thundering through the main street spoils the quaint village atmosphere we tourists crave. I take to the bike and cycle off down a country lane for a mile or so and back past a duck pond which has a little house in the middle with ramps for the ducks to walk up.

Next stop is Stow-on-the-Wold. Rather hilly here which allows a glimpse of some lovely countryside as you look down the street. These little villages usually have a good bakery, and S-on-the-W is no exception. I buy a pastry (have I told you I'm a pastry addict since arriving in this pastry-centric country?) and cycle around for a bit.

Back in the car and off to the Slaughters, first Upper then Lower. Now this is more like it. Here we have the dreamy little village with the stream running by and the only commercial venture is a grand hotel in the traditional style called the Lord of the Manor.

An American couple have arrived at the same time as me and are looking around for the shops, while I'm pouring tea from the Thermos and enjoying my pastry. They ask at the hotel and find there are no shops. They tell me the hotel is mighty fine and I should have a look, which I do.

It has a large and beautiful cottage garden at the back and sweeping lawns in front which culminate at the stream where a double cascade waterfall is visible for the enjoyment of the G&T sipping guests on the terrace.

I have a peep inside at the elegant entrance hall, sitting room, and bar which have a 1930s sort of atmosphere. Oh for a week here playing ladies!

Lower Slaughter is as charmingly devoid of shops as Upper Slaughter, although there is an art exhibition for the tourists who want something more to do than take in the scenery. The houses are beautiful and a little stream flows gently through the village.

Two young American girls ask if I will take their photo. One is from Virginia and is here to start university in St Andrews, Scotland, next week. Her friend from Washington DC, has come with her for a couple of weeks holiday and to see her on her way.

My head is starting to spin a little, I'm not sure I'm cut out for the motoring tour. You know what it's like selecting perfume, after sniffing three of them they all start to smell the same. I'm feeling rather like that with the villages and have to make sure to write notes after each one.

The next is Bourton-on-the-Water which does have shops. It also has a most intriguing model village. It was created during the 1930s by the publican of the Old New Inn (only in England!), and local craftsmen, in the back garden of the pub.

Not only is it a model village, but a model of this village, in 1/9 scale. Every house, shop and church is here. Even the River Windrush running through, complete with the lovely stone footbridges that can also be crossed in the real village. Well most days the river is running but not this one, some problem with the pump.

As you walk past the Church of St Lawrence you can hear the choir singing a hymn, and the clock in the church tower is the correct time! The gardens have bonsaied trees and shrubs, and ground-covers with miniature flowers, and neat green lawns. It really is wonderful.

After cycling around the real village I hit the road again, but it's getting late in the afternoon by now, so no time to stop in Burford if I want to see the 15th century stained glass at St Mary's in Fairford.

Beautiful. The lady watching over proceedings tells me it has recently be refurbished, glass cleaned and lead repaired. It had to go to York for this work to be done by the experts. I can't begin to imagine what that would cost.

Heading home at last via Bibury. The houses in this little village are so beautiful that I must stop for just a few more photos.

I'm totally knackered after the Romantic Road Motoring Tour and pour myself a goodly draught of red and sit down to ponder the natural and the man-made beauty this country has on offer.